Sunday, October 25, 2009

October 25th Update

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

10/8/09-10/18/09 - Best news is that I did okay on my language assessment. I will never be a shining star, but I’m confident that I will be able to communicate. Granted a lot of body language will go into my communication, but I know I will eventually get my point across. I need to continue working very hard. I just can’t remember anything!! Words, words, words --- need to memorize them and recognize them when spoken. One of my biggest problems is hearing it – the subtleties are so small, sometimes I can’t differentiate between them. I think everyone did okay on their assessments – gosh we’ve only been exposed to the language for three weeks at the time of the test, what do we/they expect? As expected, the younger adults seem to have an easier time with it and most (not all) older adults have to work much harder. I still have the final test ahead of me and I have to do okay, so please don’t let up on those positive thoughts and prayers.

One more volunteer left this weekend, unfortunately for health reasons (so now 6 have left from the original 63). He’s a recent college grad and he is very sad to be leaving. Originally one of his arms swelled up and was discolored. He now suffers from fatigue, joint ache and fevers. He’s been in Rabat for testing, but no diagnosis to date. I understand they will do a lyme disease test before they ship him out, but he (and I’m sure his family) want to get to the root of this and I’m sure he’ll be stateside soon. We’re sorry to have him leave. He was nice and great with the language.

My colleagues have selected me to be their GAD (Gender and Development Council) representative for our group. The purpose of this committee is to ensure that gender issues and activities are incorporated into community projects. I will travel to Rabat four times a year to meet up with the entire committee and I will be a resource for volunteer efforts re gender issues. There will be activities (i.e., camps, events, regional conferences, etc.), and at this point I don’t know if I’ll be directly involved with them or not? I’m delighted and tickled that my friends have elected me for this position.

Hammams are popular in Morocco. Hammans are usually public baths in urban/larger cities, but here in my town almost every home has one. It is a igloo shaped rattan structure, covered with cement. One person fits into it quite nicely, but not quite tall enough for me to fully stand up. It is located outside the house in the yard. Inside there is a tub (i.e., metal pail) filled with water. A fire is built outside and under the tub. When the water is really hot, you enter the hammam with a cold bucket of water and an extra pail. You proceed to mix the hot and cold until you reach the perfect temperature for yourself. You then scrub and scoop cups of water over yourself to wash/rinse. I would be lying to say it’s as good as a daily hot shower, but twice a week we enjoy a hammam and it feels great to be somewhat clean for at least a short while. My family enjoys a hammam in the afternoon hours and since our days have remained sunny and probably around 85 degrees -- a hammam is a sauna of sorts!! It will probably feel really good when the days get cooler. Now picture this -- I get out sweating….. My family comes out dressed for a Michigan winter storm wearing at least two layers of clothes, wool hats and scarves. They are convinced I will catch a cold and die since I am not bundled up. I don’t think this is the case in my home, but in some areas, a woman showing a wet head is considered a whore -- what kind of a reputation do I have?? I have washed my hair daily for years. I can’t believe I go 3-4-5 days between washings now. But, since I haven’t seen a mirror for a long time, I don’t know how bad it looks!! I’m sure Fatima would heat water up for me whenever I wanted it, but since our town only has running water twice a week, I hate to use unnecessary water.

We take the water issue in the US for granted, certainly not the case here. They store it up in containers of all sorts and then use the communal cup to scoop some for drinking/cooking/baking, etc. Even though we’ve been assured the water is safe for drinking, I just can’t join in on using this water to out-and-out drink yet. I continue to buy bottles of water and will probably do so until I am in my own house when at least I know who has been drinking from what and whose hands have been in the bucket. Fatima does use this water for cooking and for coffee/tea, but hoping the heat has destroyed most of the germs.

Speaking of germs – soap doesn’t seem to be a big thing here. Rarely does Fatima use soap when washing dishes. She instead slushes water around in cups, turns them over to drain and we use them again when next needed. I watched her tonight cleaning up the café – same thing applies here. Makes you think twice about eating in restaurants doesn’t it? Washing hands with soap – not so popular either. I’ve been very obvious about using soap. When I arrive home after school, I purposely bring my soap out where I can be seen and wash my face and hands. Most times I can get the kids to join in with me. Same applies to brushing my teeth., I make a spectacle of myself, but brush away. I bought two toothbrushes at the souq last Sunday when I learned that only the males in the house had toothbrushes. Now the females have them too!! Most times we brush together but I think that is partly because they really like my Crest toothpaste. If I leave them with just one memory of me – let it be me brushing my teeth. The Moroccan diet is very high in sugar and most lose their teeth at an early age. Brushing would at least help combat some of it.

I don’t want you to worry that I am wasting away to nothing. When I reread my last blog entry I noticed that I didn’t mention that we have tea, olives, (and bread , of course) at my host home when I arrive at 6p. Then after Ebkleam closes the café which seems to be anywhere from 8-9:30p, we have a light meal. Sometimes lentils, beans, fried eggs and of course bread. The kids have usually fallen asleep by this time and they rarely join us. Selma (the five year old girl) is a screamer, so it is a welcome break. Also to clear up any misconceptions you may have. Ebkleam does have a café in the lower part of the house. Unfortunately, I don’t wake up to the smell of coffee nor am I offered coffee on a regular basis. Besides, most coffee offered is Nescafe instant. Sweet tea is the drink most often served and the café is open for only a few short hours in the evening. I am still wondering what Ebkleam does to fill the daytime hours? Fatima (although seven months pregnant) seems to take care of all household tasks, children and cooking.

Here are some random thoughts/comments based on a few weeks in Morocco. I realize my perceptions and understanding may change as I become more acquainted with the culture. (1) If you have a bugger in your nose – dig it out. Doesn’t matter where you might be or with whom. (2) A loud, long belch is perfectly acceptable in any setting. (3) Should gas be passed, grab the perfume and spray everything possible. Seems like anything associated with the butt is dirty and revolting. (4) Two pieces of meat feeds a family of five perfectly well. (5) My sister loves rocks – she needs to come to Morocco, rocks are everywhere, I’ve never seen so many. How do they grow crops? (6) Two hours for lunch is great. The cat-nap is delightful! (7) Crocs are great to wear to the bathroom (bit Lama) since they can easily be washed when you pee in them. (8) Attending school six days a week is a bit much. (9) An age appropriate Moroccan man will likely not have teeth and his wrinkles will be overwhelming. (10) Moroccans are warm, welcoming and willing to share what little they have. Whenever a visitor shows up, tasks are dropped, tea is served and engaging conversations ensue.

On October 26th,we receive our permanent site assignments. I doubt that I will be able to include any of that information in this blog entry since I am writing this before that date, but cross your fingers for a good assignment. Hmmm, near the ocean, running water/electricity 24/7 and the internet in my home. What do you think my chances are? We won’t move to this site until November 13th, but I will then have a permanent address for letters and packages.

We were asked to prepare an American meal for our host families while staying with them. Today (9/18) is Sunday and souq day and I will cook since I can buy fresh produce and meat. The intent is to make chicken and dumplings. (Need to run, will continue in a bit.) I went early to the souq since the best is available then. I picked out a chicken and watched them slit it’s throat and pluck it for me. The chicken itself cost me about $3, but to have it plucked, cost me another $1+. The chicken was cooked in a large pot with fresh vegetables, but must admit they were the toughest dumplings I’ve ever made. Gma is back living with us and she licked her plate clean. Fatima’s uncle also visited today and he seemed to enjoy the meal. Had I thrown everything into a tajine, I’m betting they would have liked it better than being prepared in a pot. The newness of the presentation threw them off since I know they like everything I put into the dish. Will they ask me to prepare it again – NOT, but I enjoyed the comfort food and they have now had an American meal. I carmelized apples and served them over vanilla yogurt (didn’t have ice cream, best I could think of). They didn’t particularly enjoy it either!!

I am hoping to head out of town with a few other volunteers for a weekend trip on the 24th and 25th (unfortunately, the trip didn’t happen ). I will probably head into the nearby town and visit the cyber to post this instead. It is likely this blog will not get updated again until November 10th or so. I always have things I should be studying and being with the family for a full day is exhausting. Love & Hugs to all.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

9/28/09-10/7/09 - Can’t believe I’ve only been gone a month. At times (most times) it seems so much longer. We were told that this training period is probably the hardest part of this commitment, and it is really hard! Much harder than I anticipated, but I’ve gone through some tough times before and I can do this too. I’ve had a good cry or two which have also helped. There are so many things to adjust to, studying to do (and I haven’t done this in years) and, of course, a language I don’t understand most of the time. There have been some tense times where I have seriously questioned – why am I doing this???? But can quite honestly say I’ve not thought of throwing in the towel and heading home. When I can get a good night’s sleep, it also helps!! I’m gonna laugh more……

Other volunteers & language -- 5 of the 63 new volunteers that left Philadelphia together have gone home -- all for personal reasons. I’m told that this is more than the norm for this point in time. Four have been young adults and one was an older (like me J ) female. On the whole, spirits are good, but I’m sure we have all had low times. Except for a few, we all have problems of some sort or another with the language. Having just spent time with my colleagues at the hub site last week, I’m feeling better about my language learning. Many of the “mature” volunteers are having a harder time of it. As suggested to me by the country’s director, I am going to try to learn five new words a day – even if I just learn five a day – think of the vocabulary I’ll have in a few months! We are scheduled for a language assessment test when we are at the hub site on October 8th, so keep me in your thoughts and say a prayer for me if you are so inclined, that I do okay.

Host home -- I’ve moved to another home. My group unanimously agrees that I got the short end of the stick with my original home assignment. Not that the people were bad or mean to me, but the atmosphere was not warm or welcoming. I would have rather done anything than go home! They were also dealing with some difficult times. They lost a loved one just six months ago. He was the son, husband, father and brother of this family and he died in an industrial accident. I believe everyone is grieving and they aren’t feeling a lot of joy at the moment (maybe they never did?) Initially I thought I should stay -- maybe this is why I’m here? Give them a diversion to think about. But at the encouragement of everyone (and finally myself) I asked the PC to move me. My experiences were not positive nor was the atmosphere conducive to good learning.

My new host home is soooo much better. I have a large room with a window facing the main (only) street. It is directly across from the souq (weekly market selling everything from soup to nuts – very noisy on Sunday). I have a mat on the floor to sleep on and a small round table in the corner. Certainly nothing fancy but it works quite well. Unfortunately, our squat toilet is not in the home. I have to go out the main door and down some steps to get to it. The bathroom is a 3x4 room with just a toilet in it. It is tiled and at least this toilet doesn’t stink and it is kept much cleaner. The rest of the house consists of a parlor (a room surrounded with benches and thick cushions. There are two tables in the middle of this room and this is where we eat, do homework, watch TV (providing they have electricity, every house has a TV with satellite dish) or just hang out. I think the room I’m currently in was their TV room and the bedroom for the kids. There is a master bedroom which is furnished just like a room in the US. While I’m here the kids are sleeping on the floor in their parents’ room. There is a small cuisina (kitchen) with a tiled counter top. I haven’t seen this room used much, since there are two other cooking areas (albeit outside) but they seem to be the preferred places. The outside kitchens have dirt floors, bags of grain, etc., piled everywhere, a small pit for fires and the butane hotplate and an oven of sorts. There is also a bed in one of the kitchens and I’m betting this is where the grandmother stays when she is here. I’m told she lives here most of the time, but she is visiting relatives at the moment and I haven’t met her There is a lovely, natural courtyard with a vine covered trellis across the top where we often have our tea when I get home from school.

My family consists of my 33 year host dad. He has a café in the lower level of the home where he serves Nescafe (instant) and hot sweet tea and they play pool and foosball. He closes up shop around 9:30p and from what I can tell, he opens up around 5p. What does he do with the rest of his day ??? My host mom is 25 (yep, younger than Chris). She is pregnant with her second child which is due in late December or so. My host dad’s first wife died at childbirth and my host mom is raising his 9 year old son and their 5 year old daughter. My host mom is warm, loving and ever so nice. I haven’t seen preferential treatment displayed between the children and she kisses/cuddles them frequently. She also feeds me on a regular basis, something I really couldn’t count on in my first home. She is up, cheerful and has tea waiting for me before I head off to school. The only problem I have here is that they all want me and my attention. It is hard to carve time out in the evening for homework and studying. And, I need some time for me alone, a rare commodity at this time and it will probably remain so until I get into my own place.

I attended my first Moroccan wedding last Saturday. It actually started Friday night. Around 9p on Friday, we heard horns blowing. We checked it out via the windows. The cars in the village (all five of them) were lined up and slowly driving down the street, blowing their horns. One of the cars was decorated with balloons. I was still wondering what was going on at this point??? The cars drove past and then returned and stopped at the house next door. Lots of people gathered in the street with drums and horns blasting – and the party began. I later noticed them hauling out blankets and bundles (gifts, I presume). They played music (I think the same song) all night. When I returned from school on Saturday afternoon the party was still going. Fatima (my host mom) and I went over to it after I changed into a skirt and top. We women all gathered in a space behind the house, covered with a tarp. We sat on the ground, some chatted and we looked at each other. Some women were scurrying about serving the men food. After the men finished, we women went into the house where we were fed platters of chicken and bread. Later lamb and veggies came out (who knew there would be a second course, I was full). Then the platter of melons and grapes. A shared water cup was passed from woman to woman. I’m passing on this part since I am not drinking the local water. At this point I’ve yet to see the bride or groom?? I later understand they were married Friday night, probably around 5a or so, maybe they are consummating the marriage?? We head back outside where more drums and horns blow, along with singing. We walk the main street, clapping our hands and have a gay time. A white horse is brought out that is switched continuously, making him rear and buck a bit. I’m told the horse likes to dance too (yeah right!). The party continues all night and seems to end at dawn on Sunday. Luckily Fatima is pregnant and we head home at a reasonable hour on Saturday night. The kids were in and out of the party and did eat with us ladies, but Ebklean (my host dad) did not join us at all.

We’ve had a couple of days where we received torrential rain. I’m told in some areas the cars were floating. We lost electricity and used the butane tank with flame out the top for light. It was kind of scary. Most days have been sunny and hot. Guessing 85 or so, but who knows. It is beautiful here around 5p since it is cooling down. Nights have been comfortably cool, yet not cold.

We are in school all day from 8:30a-5:30p. We have a cook who serves us a breakfast (yes another breakfast) around 10a, lunch (our biggest and balanced meal of the day) around 12:30, and then we have a tea break around 4p. One day we made pizza for lunch. Not quite as good as we would have in the US, but not bad. Ummm, no pepperoni to be had here, so it was a veggie pizza with gouda cheese. I would like to believe that I’m losing some of the weight I put on my last few months in the states. My pants are baggy – isn’t that an indicator?? Guessing they since I’ve worn them for two weeks now, they are only stretched out!! Too bad… We have bread, bread and more bread offered here. I’m passing on most of it, but I’m certainly eating far more than I did in the states.

End of update – out of time for now. Will likely be two weeks before I have internet access again. Miss you all. Bslama
THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

9/28/09-10/7/09 - Can’t believe I’ve only been gone a month. At times (most times) it seems so much longer. We were told that this training period is probably the hardest part of this commitment, and it is really hard! Much harder than I anticipated, but I’ve gone through some tough times before and I can do this too. I’ve had a good cry or two which have also helped. There are so many things to adjust to, studying to do (and I haven’t done this in years) and, of course, a language I don’t understand most of the time. There have been some tense times where I have seriously questioned – why am I doing this???? But can quite honestly say I’ve not thought of throwing in the towel and heading home. When I can get a good night’s sleep, it also helps!! I’m gonna laugh more……

Other volunteers & language -- 5 of the 63 new volunteers that left Philadelphia together have gone home -- all for personal reasons. I’m told that this is more than the norm for this point in time. Four have been young adults and one was an older (like me J ) female. On the whole, spirits are good, but I’m sure we have all had low times. Except for a few, we all have problems of some sort or another with the language. Having just spent time with my colleagues at the hub site last week, I’m feeling better about my language learning. Many of the “mature” volunteers are having a harder time of it. As suggested to me by the country’s director, I am going to try to learn five new words a day – even if I just learn five a day – think of the vocabulary I’ll have in a few months! We are scheduled for a language assessment test when we are at the hub site on October 8th, so keep me in your thoughts and say a prayer for me if you are so inclined, that I do okay.

Host home -- I’ve moved to another home. My group unanimously agrees that I got the short end of the stick with my original home assignment. Not that the people were bad or mean to me, but the atmosphere was not warm or welcoming. I would have rather done anything than go home! They were also dealing with some difficult times. They lost a loved one just six months ago. He was the son, husband, father and brother of this family and he died in an industrial accident. I believe everyone is grieving and they aren’t feeling a lot of joy at the moment (maybe they never did?) Initially I thought I should stay -- maybe this is why I’m here? Give them a diversion to think about. But at the encouragement of everyone (and finally myself) I asked the PC to move me. My experiences were not positive nor was the atmosphere conducive to good learning.

My new host home is soooo much better. I have a large room with a window facing the main (only) street. It is directly across from the souq (weekly market selling everything from soup to nuts – very noisy on Sunday). I have a mat on the floor to sleep on and a small round table in the corner. Certainly nothing fancy but it works quite well. Unfortunately, our squat toilet is not in the home. I have to go out the main door and down some steps to get to it. The bathroom is a 3x4 room with just a toilet in it. It is tiled and at least this toilet doesn’t stink and it is kept much cleaner. The rest of the house consists of a parlor (a room surrounded with benches and thick cushions. There are two tables in the middle of this room and this is where we eat, do homework, watch TV (providing they have electricity, every house has a TV with satellite dish) or just hang out. I think the room I’m currently in was their TV room and the bedroom for the kids. There is a master bedroom which is furnished just like a room in the US. While I’m here the kids are sleeping on the floor in their parents’ room. There is a small cuisina (kitchen) with a tiled counter top. I haven’t seen this room used much, since there are two other cooking areas (albeit outside) but they seem to be the preferred places. The outside kitchens have dirt floors, bags of grain, etc., piled everywhere, a small pit for fires and the butane hotplate and an oven of sorts. There is also a bed in one of the kitchens and I’m betting this is where the grandmother stays when she is here. I’m told she lives here most of the time, but she is visiting relatives at the moment and I haven’t met her There is a lovely, natural courtyard with a vine covered trellis across the top where we often have our tea when I get home from school.

My family consists of my 33 year host dad. He has a café in the lower level of the home where he serves Nescafe (instant) and hot sweet tea and they play pool and foosball. He closes up shop around 9:30p and from what I can tell, he opens up around 5p. What does he do with the rest of his day ??? My host mom is 25 (yep, younger than Chris). She is pregnant with her second child which is due in late December or so. My host dad’s first wife died at childbirth and my host mom is raising his 9 year old son and their 5 year old daughter. My host mom is warm, loving and ever so nice. I haven’t seen preferential treatment displayed between the children and she kisses/cuddles them frequently. She also feeds me on a regular basis, something I really couldn’t count on in my first home. She is up, cheerful and has tea waiting for me before I head off to school. The only problem I have here is that they all want me and my attention. It is hard to carve time out in the evening for homework and studying. And, I need some time for me alone, a rare commodity at this time and it will probably remain so until I get into my own place.

I attended my first Moroccan wedding last Saturday. It actually started Friday night. Around 9p on Friday, we heard horns blowing. We checked it out via the windows. The cars in the village (all five of them) were lined up and slowly driving down the street, blowing their horns. One of the cars was decorated with balloons. I was still wondering what was going on at this point??? The cars drove past and then returned and stopped at the house next door. Lots of people gathered in the street with drums and horns blasting – and the party began. I later noticed them hauling out blankets and bundles (gifts, I presume). They played music (I think the same song) all night. When I returned from school on Saturday afternoon the party was still going. Fatima (my host mom) and I went over to it after I changed into a skirt and top. We women all gathered in a space behind the house, covered with a tarp. We sat on the ground, some chatted and we looked at each other. Some women were scurrying about serving the men food. After the men finished, we women went into the house where we were fed platters of chicken and bread. Later lamb and veggies came out (who knew there would be a second course, I was full). Then the platter of melons and grapes. A shared water cup was passed from woman to woman. I’m passing on this part since I am not drinking the local water. At this point I’ve yet to see the bride or groom?? I later understand they were married Friday night, probably around 5a or so, maybe they are consummating the marriage?? We head back outside where more drums and horns blow, along with singing. We walk the main street, clapping our hands and have a gay time. A white horse is brought out that is switched continuously, making him rear and buck a bit. I’m told the horse likes to dance too (yeah right!). The party continues all night and seems to end at dawn on Sunday. Luckily Fatima is pregnant and we head home at a reasonable hour on Saturday night. The kids were in and out of the party and did eat with us ladies, but Ebklean (my host dad) did not join us at all.

We’ve had a couple of days where we received torrential rain. I’m told in some areas the cars were floating. We lost electricity and used the butane tank with flame out the top for light. It was kind of scary. Most days have been sunny and hot. Guessing 85 or so, but who knows. It is beautiful here around 5p since it is cooling down. Nights have been comfortably cool, yet not cold.

We are in school all day from 8:30a-5:30p. We have a cook who serves us a breakfast (yes another breakfast) around 10a, lunch (our biggest and balanced meal of the day) around 12:30, and then we have a tea break around 4p. One day we made pizza for lunch. Not quite as good as we would have in the US, but not bad. Ummm, no pepperoni to be had here, so it was a veggie pizza with gouda cheese. I would like to believe that I’m losing some of the weight I put on my last few months in the states. My pants are baggy – isn’t that an indicator?? Guessing they since I’ve worn them for two weeks now, they are only stretched out!! Too bad… We have bread, bread and more bread offered here. I’m passing on most of it, but I’m certainly eating far more than I did in the states.

End of update – out of time for now. Will likely be two weeks before I have internet access again. Miss you all. Bslama