March Madness

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

3/20/11 Well my son, Chris has come to Morocco and gone already. It was great to have him visit and to see him. We did a whirlwind tour of Morocco traveling as far south as Mhamid, complete with a trek into the Sahara on camels (gosh I love camels, don’t they look aristocratic?), staying overnight in a Berber tent, and then worked our way north through Marrakech, Meknes & Volubillis, Fes, Chefchauouen and finally Tangiers. Unfortunately, Chris got sick towards the end of the trip and totally missed Chefchauouen since he spent the day there in bed, but was able to make the trip home to Chicago okay a few days later. We visited my first village and host family that I lived with when I first arrived in September, 2009. I had not been back for a visit and promised them that I would bring Chris if he came. The kids have grown and the new baby is beautiful. They were delighted to see me and to meet Chris. Of course, staying only a few hours was not enough time and they wanted us to stay days. We also visited the other four families that hosted volunteers while we were there. Chris commented that he has never drank so much tea in his life since we had to have tea with everyone and even had to eat two lunches, since a tajine was brought out while we were at one of the houses and we were expected to eat at my host family’s too. We then traveled to my current village and only had one day to spend unfortunately since we had too many people to meet for that length of time. Chris plastered on a smile since he couldn’t talk with anyone, and off we went. We had a nice lunch with my host family. Obviously, we didn’t have time to meet everyone that would have liked to meet him, and I’ve received a few shuma’s (shame on you) since we neglected them, but we did the best we could do. Chris had a few girls ask if he would marry them and take them back to America with him, all of which he declined. While we were in Fes, Chris was offered 5,000 camels and a donkey for his mom. I think he was a bit tempted to take him up on the offer, but then wondered just what he would do with so many camels in Chicago? Personally I think I’m worth more – maybe two donkeys, rather than one  ?? Chris had a chance to meet a few volunteers on our travels and Sarah, a friend and fellow volunteer traveled with us for the last five days. By then, Chris and I needed a break from each other and Sarah was a great diversion. Chris and Sarah bought new leather coats in Fes, nice don’t you think? It was wonderful to have him visit and I think he now has a better understanding and appreciation for the adventures I’ve experienced.

In mid-February, before Chris arrived, two fellow volunteers and myself organized and hosted a women’s leadership workshop in Ouarzazate. We worked with a women’s organization in Ouarzazate and they provided us with three facilitators that basically conducted the workshop in Dareja (Moroccan Arabic) for us. It was designed for twenty rural Moroccan women in the general vicinity to attend. It was geared for those 15-30 years old that showed some leadership potential. They arrived late Friday afternoon and returned home after breakfast on Monday. We had grant money to fund this workshop, and they incurred no expense to attend. It was even more successful than I imagined. After the initial awkwardness of getting to know each other, they participated and seemed to enjoy becoming acquainted not only with the concept of leadership, but with each other too. One of our previous volunteers prepared a documentary (titled “You Can Dream”) wherein she interviewed six women who have stepped outside the normal realm and became leaders in their communities. We showed this film and had great discussions since each woman’s experience was very different than another’s. During the workshop they developed a vision and a plan to achieve that vision. There will be a one day follow-up workshop in May to see what progress has been made. The women left energized and enthused and commented that they never even thought that such things were possible. It was exciting to watch them and their reactions. It was also fun to observe just how much we are all alike. After dinner each night, the young ones headed out of the hotel to “see the town”. Granted they were back in by 10p, unlike some of our American youths would be, but they too wanted to experience it all. Some of them had never stayed in a hotel before, let alone without their parents or adult supervision (I guess we were the adult supervision), but they were given a pretty lose rein by us and no one abused it. One of the girls I took with me from my village is actually a bit more adventurous than others. She is one of the lucky ones here in the village and she attends the university in Agadir. While in the village she is very conservative and quiet. She is proper in every way. When I went to get her for the trip into Ouarzazate, she came out of the house dressed in sexy jeans and looked very chic. Her long hair was washed and swept up into a swinging pony tail. She was as cute as a button. And, later when given the opportunity, you should have seen her dance. Nothing shy about that girl!! I would not have known it was the same girl that I’ve known for the past 1.5 years. Not that she did anything wrong, because she didn’t, she was just so different. Yet, if asked what her future holds, she will likely tell you that she will come back to the village to live. Hopefully this workshop will motivate her to put her education to good use in the village at some point in the future.

Since Peace Corps is celebrating its 50th Anniversary this year, we also celebrated it at our workshop. Everyone involved with the workshop including the hotel staff joined in the celebration. A cake was ordered from a local bakery and the creation was all their doing. What do you think? Quite the cake I would say!!!

After leaving the workshop I went to the home of Nadia’s family for lunch. Nadia is one of two workers at our baby’s center and she has wanted me to come for lunch for a long while, but seems like her days off and me being in Ouarzazate never seemed to coincide. Well this time it worked out and a lovely lunch was shared. She invited five other young ladies to join us, all either from my village or at least familiar with my village, and a lively conversation was had. A lovely cake was prepared in my honor, since my days in Morocco may be limited. I was touched by their thoughtfulness.

I met with the individual classes (grades 1-6) at our primary school and talked about oral hygiene. We watched a cartoon-like movie in Tashlheet that I have that reinforces good dental care that the kids seem to enjoy. Teachers also commented that they also learned something new from the lesson I taught. Everyone went home with a new toothbrush and most with a small tube of toothpaste in hand. I forewarned them that I would ask them when I see them whether they have been brushing their teeth and you can bet I do this. Almost everyone says “yes” and sometimes not only can I see that they have not, but their faces clearly show me that they have not been doing so. Obviously, I show my displeasure in this. Perhaps if I make myself out to be such a nuisance, they will just brush their teeth to make me stay away.

The kids and teachers seem to just like me popping in from time to time and I definitely do this, almost every day since I walk near anyways. I might only stay a few minutes, but their smiles warm my heart and make me feel good and hopefully they benefit too. I was pleasantly surprised to notice sparkling, clean bathrooms the last time I was at the school. It seems that they have taken my suggestion of assigning different classes – bathroom duty and both boys and girls are involved in the process of cleaning. I raved and made quite a fuss about how impressed and pleased I was. Everyone seemed very proud. They actually listened to me – I am tickled – it made my day!!

I also noticed while showing Chris the association and the place where we make cheese that in the refrigerator was a tray of cheese that had been flavored with (?) (maybe rosemary. Who knew??? I didn’t think that this was going anywhere and obviously someone must be buying at least some of it. And, this past week, my counterpart asked me to come and (I thought) show her how to make some of the flavorings I created. Well, she definitely wanted flavored cheese, but I don’t think the intent was for me to show her how to make it – she wanted me to make it. Which I did, but I also brought her over to watch while I made each new batch. When asked where she was going to take this cheese, she indicated that there was a demonstration and I presume she meant there was going to be a taste testing somewhere that she wanted to participate in. Regardless, I am just thrilled that maybe, just maybe, they have taken my suggestions to heart. Since almost everyone involved in the association is illiterate, even though I have the recipes written down in English, French and Arabic, how do you read them if you can’t read? I’ve now put the recipes in graphic form. Elaine brought me some great colored measuring spoons when she visited last October. I’ve used those colors to indicate the quantities needed in the recipes. I have each recipe in a plastic page saver complete with the graphics and written recipes. If they have questions, hopefully they will find a younger woman who can marginally read to help them.

I’ve now taken my tooth brushing campaign door-to-door. If they will take the time to let me give them a short tooth brushing demonstration, everyone in the house will get a new toothbrush. Again, since I really struggle with my language, my demonstration is probably quite comical. I usually get a lot of laughs and hugs and promises to brush their teeth twice a day. Hmmmm

We had a National Geographic tour group come by this past week for a visit to my village. We trekked up the back way to my host family’s home for tea. Not only does this trek give a different and unique view of the countryside, but it also gave them the opportunity to admire my painted door!! My host family is warm, welcoming and simply charming in an innocent way. Everyone enjoyed the opportunity for this experience.

Just before Chris arrived, we were enjoying spring like weather – it was lovely and I was sure that spring had arrived. Well, I returned to a village that was miserably cold. We had snow, winds and winter-like temperatures for about a week mid-March. My house was again sitting at 40 degrees. Downright chilly to comfortably live in. Luckily, we’ve had sun for the past couple of days and with a little luck, maybe spring is just around the corner. This morning I drank my coffee on my rooftop and it was lovely to watch my village wake up. A pile of cement blocks had been dropped below my apartment and I watched a donkey haul four blocks up the hill at a time. This animal worked with little supervision. They would load the carrier on his back and he would automatically start up the hill. I will never understand why the donkey is viewed as one of the lowest creatures in Morocco? What would we do without them?

Peace Corps has decided to bring me to Washington DC for surgery on that torn meniscus. I’ll have surgery at George Washington University Hospital. I will stay in Washington for at least a bit of the physical therapy that follows surgery, but it is possible that they will move me to my home of record, which is my sister’s address in Michigan. I almost went for surgery this past week, but with the US government’s budget issues, it was decided to put me back on hold until it is resolved. I suspect once things are settled, I will go soon. I am now told that they think I have a bit better than 50/50 chance of returning to Morocco after surgery. Of course it all depends on how surgery and physical therapy goes. I do have to be back to 100% in forty five days though to return. Can I do that? This has rather complicated my leaving. Do I pack to leave or come back? As it is now, I have everything that I want to return to the states with me packed in suitcases. If I don’t return, they will have to be shipped to me. I will just travel with a small bag for surgery. I have not disposed of my apartment furnishings, since I will need them if I come back. I have found homes for most things and I’ve left a list in each room as to what goes where. Unfortunately Anna and Angelica will end up bearing the burden of actually getting rid of things should I not return. I’ll be glad to have this all behind me. I’ve never been very good at not knowing what to expect. Initially, I was very disappointed that I would be leaving Morocco before my planned return date. Then I adjusted to this thought and I was getting excited about the prospects of being stateside sooner rather than later. Now I don’t know what I’m hoping for? Do I say good-bye or not? Guess I will just take what I get – huh?

Since I’ve sort of said good-bye to lots of people, I have had invitations galore to come share tea, a meal, or just a few minutes of time. Everyone wants to express their best wishes to me in some way. Again, their kindness overwhelms me at times. This is an extraordinary country in many ways.

Well that is about it for this update. When I next write I will likely be in the states recuperating somewhere. I hope you are enjoying spring like weather and that winter is behind you too. Take a minute to appreciate today and hug a loved one. Thinking of you and missing you. Til next time. Hugs, Linda

Frosty February

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

2/14/11 I'm sorry, but I give up on uploading any more pictures. It has taken me over 2.5 hours to load the ones I have done so far and I really must do something produtive today. Sounds like many of you have been blasted by some nasty winter weather lately. Brrrr, it’s cold here too, but luckily no snow for my village. The higher elevations have a nice layer of the white stuff, and I hope it stays up there. My house does not have a heat source and it has averaged 40 degrees for the past couple of weeks and the drafts coming in the windows can raise a rug. It’s a bit chilly to just sit back and relax and I find that I go to bed earlier and earlier, just be warm. It’s okay – spring is right around the corner – I just know it!

My friends, Donna and Gail, and I set off seeking some warmer weather in January and we traveled south . Of course, since Donna lives in the Taroudant area, she wasn’t really in such need of a break from the cold, and we started our travels at her site. Taroudant is known as little Marrakech and what a nice little city it is. A new, modern city in many respects, but it has some lovely old Moroccan areas too. This area is also known for having argan trees. The argan is a relative of the olive, a twisted, tortured-looking tree whose fruit is eaten by the local goats. The goats have become adept at climbing into its branches to graze. I did see goats grazing, but unfortunately, I didn’t have my camera ready to take a picture  Really fun to see a goat in a tree though!! One of the things that Donna’s association does is that it makes argan oil. They are not a big organization or producer, and it is a labor intensive product requiring many hours of labor to produce a small quantity of oil. Argan oil is touted to be one of the best beauty products available. They also have an edible oil that is light, nutty flavored and wonderful for bread dipping. We then headed down through Agadir, stopping for lunch at a café on the beach. The sunshine and warmth felt wonderful! Sidi Ifni was our first destination stop, a Spanish colony until 1969, now with a thriving port. This city seems curiously out of place with its art deco buildings and a Catholic Church . We spent a lovely afternoon north of the city at Legzira Plage,a secluded bay with a nice sandy beach and two dramatic natural stone arches reaching over the sea (pictures attached). We then traveled through 100+k of desolate, vacant desert until we reached Tan Tan, where Gail’s friends Auday & Fatima live. This is as far south as we PCVs are permitted to travel. Our documents were carefully inspected before we were allowed to enter. Tan Tan surprisingly has a population of 60,000 and it was far more developed that I expected to find it. We stayed at a beach hotel, but the area was quiet and few people were out and about. Weather was pleasant, but hardly swimsuit weather. Gail stayed on with her friends and Donna and I traveled to the Tata area where we visited Alisa and Courtney at their sites before we traveled back to our respective homes. It was only a few days away, but it was a nice break from the cold, mountain weather I live in.

I had committee meetings in Rabat at the end of January, and I headed in a few days early for medical appointments. I saw an orthopedic doctor while there and he says my knee issue is degenerative joint disease/cartilage degeneration/arthritis of knee, basically all the same thing, just different names to call it. Boils down to the fact that I have aging knees and the right one was pushed over the top with all the squatting I did while painting the world map in August. He advised that I increase my dose of glucosamine and hopefully with time it will feel almost normal. The doctor concurred with my diagnosis of a Baker’s cyst at the back of the knee, but advised that I do nothing with it at this time. With any luck, as the front of the knee improves, this cyst might just go away on its own. In the meantime, squatting is a bit problematic!! I actually head back into Rabat in the near future for another committee meeting and we are going to do an ultrasound of the knee while I am there to confirm the cyst, it’s size and it’s location.

I was told of another association here in my village, but I was also told that they were not active, that they didn’t do anything, etc. Dummy me - I should know better than to just blindly accept someone else’s word. Finally I ventured to the other side of town and found the association. As I approached, I head lots of laughter emanating out of the building. I found nine young 20ish aged women in the building working on embroidery, one was sewing at the sewing machine, and others were painting on fabric. I learned that they have a preschool with fifteen children. The room they use is pleasant with pictures on the walls and their artistic creations were displayed throughout. I asked if there was anything I could do for them and initially I was told “no”. Then after a bit of time passed, they asked if I would just come back and talk with them – a little language exchange as they would like to learn some English. Obviously I said yes I would most definitely do that. I asked if they were interested in doing some pilates with me and they emphatically said “yes”. I also asked about dental hygiene and would they like some instruction. Well, I have gone back and this past week I loaded up my daypack with toothbrushes/toothpaste and off I went (pictures attached). While I was in Rabat I found a movie regarding tooth brushing in Tashlheet, so I took my computer and movie along too. Everyone was excited. Probably watching the movie on the computer was a highlight of my instruction. For whatever reason, there were around nine elementary school children there this day too, some little ones working on embroidery too. So rather than give the instruction and tooth brushes to the young women, I met with the kids instead. I’ll go back another time and meet with the women. I was in the mood to bake the day before I planned to go back, so I made an orange cake and took it along. Guess everyone was thinking of a party mood, since three other women brought cakes too. So after everyone nicely brushed their teeth, we had cake and tea – seems a bit counterproductive doesn’t it?

I have become better acquainted with a 13 year old girl lately. She speaks decent English and says she learned it by watching television (this reminded me of a Polish friend who also learned much of her English by watching television). She likes to come to my house and visit with me. One day I invited her to my house to help me bake cookies (picture attached). Upon touching a hot pan she uttered “shit”. I wondered if I heard her correctly and asked and she said “yes”. I asked if she learned that on television and of course that is where she learned it. I then told her that nice young ladies really didn’t say such things and that perhaps she should say “ooops” instead. She has made great effort to substitute the words “ooops” into the appropriate spots. I learned that this young woman is going to collage (middle school) in the neighboring town. She boards there all week and comes home on weekends. She has dreams of attending a university in America. Not only do very few of the children from my village have the opportunity to attend collage, but to have the dream of an American university!! I recently saw her parents at a school outing and I told them how proud I was of them and of their daughter. Jhssan is smart enough to do this and I keep telling her that she must work hard in school and do well and that scholarships are available for those that really want to do this. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if this really happens?

I’ve recently attended several school parties celebrating the end of the first semester (pictures attached). One was quite the gala affair celebrated at our municipal building. Many children participated and entertained the many guests that came to watch. The “who’s who” of the village were there. I took lots of pictures and the school director made prints of them that he is proudly giving out. Earlier in the week I also attended the pre-school party. Can you believe we had four cakes, two plates of cookies and a big bowl of candy for fifteen children. Yeow….. that was a lot of sugar. I listened to “Happy Birthday” for 2.5 hours since that seems to be the favorite upbeat party song. This party was a surprise for me and had I known, I would have taken along my “101 Silly Songs”. Granted they would not have understood the words, but they would have loved the melodies and I could have shown them the many moves these songs invoke. I just stopped by the primary school to tell them of an art project I’ve been made aware of. While there one of the teachers asked me if I could get him any information regarding teaching autistic, dyslectic or children with ADD. He says he almost always has a student or two suffering from this and he has to send them home since he doesn’t know what to do with them. If anyone has information they would like to share with me so that I may share it with him, it would be most appreciated. Thanks.

I haven’t done much with my other association lately. I stop in there several times a week, but nothing is really happening. We have had 145 babies pass through our baby’s center doors though in less than a year and I think that is a real accomplishment in and of itself. I am still hopeful of helping to get the water issue resolved. Unfortunately, nothing moves quickly here, so fast results will not be seen.

I am so looking forward to my son, Chris’s visit at the end of the month. Sure hope he feels like smiling a lot since he won’t be able to talk with many people and so many people want to meet him. My next update may be a bit later in March, since he will be here until the 13th but I hope to do it shortly after that date.

A quick update on my knee - well the ultrasound I had done confirmed that there is indeed a walnut-sized cyst behind the knee. Not sure that we learned much specifically about this cyst really, other than if the front of the knee heals, hopefully the cyst will just go away. Unfortunately, the MRI that was done later in the week confirmed that I have a torn miniscus requiring surgery. Surgery needs to be done soon and I'm told it will be done in the states. I've also been told it is a piece of cake - no worries. The bad news is that the recup/recovery time given to me by this orthopedic doctor is six months. Seems like a terribly long time, although we do have some cartilage to repair and you have to factor in my age :-) In all probability, the likelihood of PC medically separating me is almost certain after 45 days. Since Chris, arrives in Marrakech on February 28th, I have asked (begged actually) if the surgery can wait until April since I want to show Chris some of Morocco. Our PCMOs think this is possible, although it will be PC Washington's decision to make. So looks like I will be coming home, sooner rather than later........

I truly believe that we should finish what we start, and I am so disappointed that I will most likely not return to Morocco. When I know more details and dates, I'll let you know. In the meantime, stay healthy, happy and take care. Hugs to you all, Linda

Jumpin January

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

1/8/2011 Bonne Annee (Happy New Year) A new year is upon us. Let it be a healthy, happy one for everyone!!!
Hope your holidays were even better than expected or hoped for and that memories were made to warm your heart and make you smile during the coming years.

I know that I just updated this blog a few weeks ago, but I have a few minutes now and thought – what the heck. There isn’t a schedule here and those friends and family just love to hear from me   so write away…….

As I wrote in my previous blog, I baked nine different kinds of cookies and delivered fourteen plates of them around to people in my community for the Papa Noel holiday. I doubt that you fully appreciate what a challenge this can be. Imagine reading the recipe and it says to bring the butter to room temperature. Ah duh ---- the refrigerator, my kitchen, the same temperature here. I would follow sun beams around rooms with butter in dishes, trying to get the butter soft enough to work with. Some of you are thinking, just melt it. If you are a baker you know that this doesn’t really work, since it can really change the texture of the end product, unfortunately. And, I’m attaching a picture of my oven so you can get a better idea of this challenge. Does that look like a 350 degree flame to you? Regardless, the cookies for the most part turned out just fine and they were enjoyed by everyone.

Eight of us gathered on Christmas eve at Hannah’s house , just outside of Marrakech for the Christmas holiday. Hannah inherited a real Christmas tree (well artificial, but 6 ft in height) and she had it beautifully decorated with handmade miniature Berber dolls, complete with twinkling lights. Obviously, I had taken a selection of cookies along too, so the picture was complete. It felt like Christmas !!! The weather was chilly so we huddled/cuddled on the ponges and watched holiday movies Christmas afternoon (picture attached). We did a white elephant gift exchange and that brought about a few giggles and laughs, but mostly satisfied recipients. We had a lovely holiday dinner of sliced turkey breasts, roasted potatoes, cauliflower and homemade apple sauce. Just the pure fact of sharing the holiday with such good people made the holiday special for all of us. We all returned to our respective homes on the 26th, leaving a lonely Hannah behind. Now my tree wasn’t nearly as glamorous, but I forgot to attach a picture of it with my last update, so I’m attaching one now. Pretty special don’t you think?

I’ve made a new friend – Gail. Gail lives in Canada and found my blog and contacted me in early September. Gail had visited Morocco years before and she was returning to Ouarzazate for two months in December. Since we are the same age, she thought I would be a good one to ask questions to about living conditions, what clothes to bring, etc. Well after corresponding for several months, it was nice to finally meet. We clicked and decided we wanted to really celebrate the new year this year and off to Casablanca we went. It was a fast trip – traveled by bus, then train all day on the 30th. Had the day to spend as we liked on the 31st , and then we rode the train, then bus back home on the 1st. Whew……. I had low expectations for Casablanca, as it has been previously described to me as the armpit of Morocco. I came away with a very different opinion.. We only had good experiences with good people. At a friend’s suggestion we stayed at the Hotel de Paris located in the old French quarters. It was in a pedestrian mall and the area was full of cafes, little shops and lots of people (oh yeah, some great ice cream too). The hotel wasn’t fancy mind you, but we had our own bathroom, complete with western toilet, it was clean and the area felt very safe. Gail had been to Casablanca before and elected not to join me for a visit to the Hassan II Mosque (pictures attached) during the day on the 31st. This is one of two mosques in Morocco that is open to non-Muslims. It is located at the ocean’s edge. The 210m-high minaret, the tallest building in the country, is topped by a laser beam that shines toward Mecca. It is the world’s third-largest mosque, accommodating 25,000 worshippers inside and a further 80,000 in the courtyards and squares surrounding it. The prayer hall is huge and elaborately decorated. It is large enough to house Paris’ Notre Dame or Rome’s St. Peter’s. It is blanketed in astonishing woodcarving, marble and stucco and it has a retractable roof. It is amazing!!!

I can’t remember when I was last “out” for new years. Usually I’ve celebrated with home parties. But we decided to go the full nine yards and to bring in the new year we went to Rick’s Café - yes the Rick’s Café featured in the movie “Casablanca.” (pictures attached) Granted, the restaurant/bar was created after the movie, not vice versa, and there have been several renditions of it though the years, but the current owner has had it about eight years now. Albeit, it was expensive, but what a gala affair it was in an absolutely beautiful setting. The wait staff was friendly, attentive and made us feel very special. No one was left sitting in the sidelines, everyone was encouraged to dance and join in. The open bar, fresh oyster bar, courses upon courses of food (we ate almost non-stop from 9p til after midnight) and continuous wonderful music by various musicians was wonderful. One of the very nicest things was at midnight, the entire staff (including kitchen) was on the dance floor to bring in and celebrate the New Year. It was a night we will long remember.

So, yes, I’ve been away from site, but for very short time frames this past month. These fast trips are killers though. As I’ve said before, travel isn’t easy here!! Came down with a bug of some kind on January 2nd and it’s taken me days to finally feel better. So glad I was home and near a toilet when it hit. By the way, the knee in and of itself is better. At least the initial problem, diagnosed as tendonitis, is better. The walnut sized lump behind the knee remains the same and is problematic, but livable. I’m afraid I walk like a tentative “old” woman though and I’m not so fond of that. Hope to check it out with doctors while in Rabat later this month.

I’ve been to Ouarzazate several times this past month to work on the upcoming February workshop and to accompany a young woman with some health issues find a doctor/medical clinic that could help her. Emotionally draining and worrisome for her and must say that it affected me too. She had no one in her camp supporting her and as much as I didn’t want to get involved, I felt she needed someone. The problems seem resolved at the moment, and I’m hoping it remains this way. Sorry to be so evasive here, but for privacy reasons, its best I not go into details.

Earlier this week I visited our preschool with toothbrushes in hand. These happy little 3-5 year olds were excited about my visit and eager to greet me with hugs and kisses. I actually asked another PCV, Angelica, to come with me, since her Tashlheet is much better than mine is, and I thought between us we could better get the message across. The teacher then translated it to Dareja (Moroccan Arabic), which I found to be interesting since Tashlheet is the language spoken here in the village. I left a large tube of toothpaste with the teacher and asked if the children could leave their toothbrushes there at school and if she would help them brush their teeth every day. I said that I would try to come at least two mornings a week to work with them also. I know that this doesn't give them a toothbrush at home to use, but if we can get them into the habit of brushing at least once a day, perhaps we can then move on to twice and even three times. Not wanting the toothbrushes to sit in a cup together, I took a small plastic bag for each child and we wrote their name on each bag. I even had a sticker for each child that I put on their shirt after they had brushed. Now must admit that brushing their actual teeth was a bit challenging for Angelica to personally handle. Most 3-5 year olds are not very neat to begin with and with toothpaste/saliva sliding from their mouths, was almost more than Angelica could bear. When I saw her gagging, we decided I really needed to take over this part (pictures attached). They were happy little campers and oh soooo excited. It was a delightful morning.

While standing on my roof this morning I noticed that the almond tree near my house is blossoming. Isn’t that crazy? I’m guessing this “warm” winter we’ve had so far has fooled this tree into thinking it’s spring. I hope this tree knows something we don’t and that spring is just around the corner. Wouldn’t that be nice? Actually, so far it hasn’t been a bad winter. Yes, long underwear is part of my normal attire, as well as wearing four layers on top and I have my fingerless gloves on as I type this, AND I’ve complained a little, but ……. We haven’t had snow in the village yet. There is snow in the higher elevations, but luckily we’ve escaped it so far. But I’m trying to remember when was it last year that I was really cold. I didn’t move into my own house until January 1st, so it was after that. I’m afraid I have winter days ahead of me yet!

I know that I’ve talked about donkeys before, but this morning while on my rooftop drinking my coffee I noticed a donkey making a real fuss. He was bucking, pawing and most definitely did not want to be hooked up to that plow. I think I noticed it because I think this is the first time I’ve seen one act up. Normally they look so bored, complacent and just sooo sad. Their bray just breaks my heart. I’ve taken to saying, if I come back in another life, please don’t let it be a donkey in Morocco. I am pleased to say though, that the man working with this donkey remained calm, was not abusive and eventually the animal calmed down, although still not happy. On the whole, people in my village are not mean to the animals here. I’ve seen several times men pick up cats and stroke them. Just this past week I’ve seen two teenage boys playing with dogs. Granted rarely are they treated as pets and allowed in homes. They are oftentimes fed food scraps, although there aren’t many food scraps to be had here. Their diet consists of a lot of bread and whatever prey they come upon. Remember my friend Gus from the baby’s center? Must say that I’ve not seen my adopted pet in quite some time, unfortunately. Another dog has taken up residence though and she’s been heavy with puppies. She looks to have delivered and looks exhausted. This dog is a real talker. As I scratch her chin or between her ears, she just talks up a storm to me. I’m thinking her life isn’t very easy and she needs to tell someone about it. At least this is what her face tells me. And, on another note, I know that a rooster’s crowing is good luck, but why do they crow incessantly? There is one in my neighborhood that never shuts up!!

I received a sad text this week from my friend, Nadia, who used to live downstairs. Remember, she was the one who found a man and they were to be married in July. Unfortunately, she tells me that he has died. When asked for more details she just told me that he was healthy, but one day died. It was his turn and we will all have a turn. She hopes that Allah will bless him. I’m sure she is upset and terribly sad about this. If she didn’t live eight hours away, I’d go see her, but the timing isn’t good for that at the moment. Must say that this was one wedding I was looking forward too.

Well I must get ready to head out to teach some pilates and I have a group of girls that want to come by my house later to visit. Everyone is curious to see the American’s house, so I’ve been allowing small groups to come from time to time. I’ll likely make some popcorn and perhaps teach them how to play dominoes. It seems to be an easy game to learn and they all enjoy it so much.

Enjoy winter’s weather, stay warm and healthy. Until I write again – take care. Hugs, Linda

December - Side Note

Hi Again, my apologies..... as many of you know I am technologically challenged and I wanted to edit the post BEFORE I published it, but couldn't seem to find the right spot to do so. So a bit of explanation is in order:

Pictures loaded too easy, knew that the morning was going too good to last
Two of the same picture are posted - ooops
The man in the picture is Ambassador Kaplan
The group picture is of my staj - 19 of 26 that came remain in Morocco
Picture of me was taken in Rabat outside Challah

Be Happy and SMILE!!!

December - Hurry, Hurry the month is almost gone

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

12/20/10 Time seems to be moving along faster and faster. I usually try to update this blog a bit earlier in the month, but here it is almost Christmas and I’ve still not done so. If you read no further than this first paragraph, I want you to know that I send you my warmest wishes for wonderful holidays and I hope 2011 is a year of fond, memorable memories for you and your family.

You may remember me telling you that a friend’s association made friendship dolls to be given away to little girls to love and learn from, since many little girls in rural Morocco never have a doll to play with. Well Annie gave me dolls to give to little girls in my village and the dolls have now been placed in loving arms and have new homes. Samir, my local friend, came with me to act as an interpreter since I was uncertain if my poor Tashlheet and charades could be easily understood. Samir suggested that we distribute the dolls to the little girls that live rurally and may not be able to attend school. We devoted several mornings to this task and what a rewarding time it was for both of us. I believe the little girls appreciated not only receiving the dolls, but our efforts as well.

Muslins celebrated L3id in mid-November this year. You’ll likely remember me writing about this holiday last year. Remember, my family slaughtered a sheep and we ate sheep until the meat was gone. We had it breakfast, lunch and dinner with little else being served with it other than bread. When asked why, I was told, “why fill up on other stuff when we have meat to eat”. To better explain the holiday, read the below paragraphs.

“The law in Morocco allows for home sacrifice for personal consumption only. Meat
intended for sale must be slaughtered at the public abattoir under supervision.

Guidance from the Quran is that if an animal is to be sacrificed, it should not suffer.
Prayers are offered and the animal is treated with respect. An animal should not be
sacrificed in the presence of another animal. The neck is cut with a sharp knife in one
clean stroke – two strokes can be used. Humane sacrifice and exsanguinations are
similar qualities of ‘halal’ and ‘kosha’ meat.

The Islamic festival of Aid El Adha, the festival of sacrifice, is an ancient religious festival
based on the story of Ibrahim and Ishmail. As was tradition at the time, Ibrahim was
about to sacrifice his only son to demonstrate his faith and submission to God when a
goat / sheep appeared in the thicket and God spoke to Ibrahim telling him to sacrifice the
goat instead (the same story as Abraham and Isaac in the Bible and Torah).”

My family invited me to share the day with them. When asked what time I should come, they said 8a. Now this seemed a bit early to me and I didn’t need to see the sheep actually slaughtered, so I told them I’d be there around 10a. Well 8:30a came and my host brother and sister were knocking at my door, they had come to get me. Now I’m a bit grumpy without my two cups of coffee and I was in the midst of drinking them when they knocked, so I sent them away saying I would be there at 10a – no worries. Well shortly before 10a my brother and sister were back once again, “when are you coming”. Okay, okay, keep your pants on, I’ll walk back with you. Nothing much was happening at the house and I still don’t know what the hurry was, but it’s a big day for them and I guess they wanted to share it with me. I thought for sure I had missed the slaughter, but while on the cliffs behind the house with the kids I noticed a black sheep being led into the yard – I had not missed it!! I purposely stayed away for a while, no need to see the throat slit, but I did watch them dress it out. We then had the liver cooked/served on skewers for lunch. About an hour later we walked to my counterpart’s house (my host father’s sister) and ate a sheep tajine. Put into this mix, tea and cookies being served not only at my host family’s house, but at neighbors and other family member’s homes too. My host mom’s parents and a couple of her siblings came out from Ouarzazate later in the afternoon and it was great to see them again since I had met them for the first time during this holiday last year. Later a leg was cut off and dinner was underway and I escaped home, besides it was getting dark. I was full to the brim, I couldn’t have eaten dinner if you had jammed it down my throat.

The next day I decide to work at my computer until time for pilates. Around noon, two sisters came knocking at my door. They asked me to come with them. Well okay, let me turn off the computer and get some shoes on. I walk with them to their house. They bring out cookies, nuts and made tea. I'm thinking, this is nice. Then they bring out a liver tagine for lunch. I say to them, ohhhh no I don't want to stay for lunch (they are not a wealthy family in any way, shape or form) and they tell me to sit, stay and eat, eat, eat. Now this is my third day of liver lunches (Samir on Tuesday, host family yesterday and now today) and I've never eaten liver in the states even though my parents and older brother love the stuff - yuck! So I try to eat a lot of bread, a little liver and attempt to have a conversation. One of these sisters takes care of my plants on my rooftop when I am gone and I think they have adopted me. While sitting at their home another young woman comes in that I know. She tells me that her aunt would like me to stop by. I notice that it is almost 2p, and if we're to be at the assn at 3p, not a lot of time, but yes let's go see your aunt. I really, really like her aunt. She wants me to have lunch with her family. Just had lunch, no room or time. She then takes meat out of the pan she is cooking and sends me home with meat in a dish for later (I make stew and it is quite good actually). Thankfully, it does not look like liver, although I am sure it is sheep. She also sends bananas and tangerines. While I am there, another woman comes in that I know. Come and have lunch with her. No, sorry, just had lunch and I'm full. Another time? Okay, I'm heading down the hill now and run into another woman who has a big load of grass on her back. We stop, kiss, exchange pleasantries and she asks me to come to her house for lunch. My goodness, this is four invitations to lunch in the matter of about two hours. I reflect back on the day and my heart is touched with the generosity of these people. I can't imagine getting four invitations to lunch if I walked my neighborhood at home. I have so much to learn from the Moroccans, lets just hope I can absorb it and share it. I must remember all of them and give them plates of Christmas cookies when I make them.
The day following the big feast, there are groups of teenagers dressed in costumes, many wearing sheep hides, that go from home to home collecting either food items or money for those less fortunate. I ran some money down to them and I did manage to get a picture of the last straggler. I was too slow in grabbing the money and camera and missed most of them. It is interesting to note that basically these people have very little, but they seem willing to share with others without a moment's hesitation. I suppose that is a big part of their religious background? I think almost every house gives something to these boys. The younger kids follow along behind them at a safe distance. If the guys in costume turn around and look at them, the kids yell, scream and run for their lives. Fun to stand at the window and watch. The boys also put on a play behind the school later in the afternoon. They were dressed in costume and had makeshift musical instruments. I inquired as to what the play was about and about all I know is that it is a tradition and it seemed to be enjoyed by the group that gathered to watch.

I have begun doing pilates with some of the teen-age girls in my site. Sometimes we do it on my rooftop and sometimes we go to the association and use one of the rooms there. I had five young women coming on a pretty regular basis before I headed out of site for two weeks, and I hope to have them return once again. I think of these girls as being quite strong, and they are, but in such a different way than I am. All of these pilates moves are foreign to them and difficult. Again, lots of moans, groans and giggles. I tell them to take those scarves off their heads and they do. My hair is of course falling in my face and they are shaking their heads of hair with a new-found freedom. When we finish I am asked when will we exercise again. They tell me that the pilates was very good and that it was fun. I had fun too. I'm not sure what I'm teaching them, other than its important to take care of our bodies and its okay to do something for ourselves as women. The men gather at the coffee shops, but the women don't have any place to go. Maybe exercise will be their bonding time? Guess I'm also showing them that a 61 year old woman can still move and is alive!!!

Anna, Angelica, Andy and I celebrated Thanksgiving together the following week. We didn’t have a turkey to roast (my oven wouldn’t hold one anyways), but we do have sliced turkey breasts. Angelica has a great butcher with refrigeration in her site, so we have that. To give our dinner a Moroccan flair I decided to make stuffing and wrap the turkey slices around it and cook it in a tajine. Not nearly as good as the turkey we remember from previous holidays, but not bad. Anna makes a squash pie and who can tell that it’s not pumpkin? We have a green bean casserole (of course), mashed potatoes, and a sweet potato casserole too. Yes we did have a bottle of wine, but no one’s telling – right? Some of the girls here at site painted fabric napkins for me in the spring, so we even had cloth napkins to use. No roughing it for us!!

We had a “clean the school day” in November. Decided we needed to do this now before it really got too cold. The tables/desks were all brought outside and scrubbed down. Paint that had probably been on them for years was no longer there. Floors were washed and anything else that could be cleaned was cleaned. The kids and I were wet-wet-wet by the end of the morning and I was chilled to the bone. If the classrooms were ever painted, it’s been a long time and they now appear to the gloomy cement color. I’m wondering if I couldn’t perhaps paint them at least a cheery color. I might have to look into that.

I also finally met the man from the new cheese store in Ouarzazate. He was familiar with our cheese and had, in fact, had some in his store to sell. My counterpart, Bia, told him that it was goat cheese, but his customers told him that it was not goat cheese and he asked me whether it was. Unfortunately, it is not and I had to tell him the truth. Bia creates her own problems……. I told him about my flavorings of cheese and he said that he would like to taste them and work with me. We will try to work together after the first of the year and see how we can best market this new product. Of course, I will leave here and who will carry on?

I was then off to Marrakech to help with Marche Maroc for the first week of December. PC volunteers work with some of the Moroccan artisans at the artisanal there to sell their wares. Unfortunately, foot traffic was down and sales were not as good as hoped for, in spite of the fact that a film festival was going on in Marrakech at the same time. The province delegate thought that would increase sales, but maybe people were up late watching movies and buying crafts was not a priority for the group that was in town. I can’t say that we had great fun or excitement this week, since most of our time was spent working, but we did have a nice dinner or two while in Marrakech. Basically we were too tired by the end of the day to go out. It was a luxury though to pick up a pizza and take it back to the hotel to eat since few of us can do this at our sites.

My staj (group of us that came over together in 2009) then gathered at the PC offices in Rabat for our mid-service medicals during the second week of December. Hurray, no parasites or cavities!!! Unfortunately, my knee is still not back to normal. I think I am battling two ailments here. Perhaps tendonitis, as previously diagnosed, and I do think that it is better. But now I have a lump behind my right knee about the size of a walnut. After doing a bit of computer research and self-diagnosis, I think I have a Baker’s cyst. This cyst is similar to a ganglion cyst in many ways. I have one on the top of my hand now and I’ve had one on the top of my foot before. They come and go and are not anything serious. Unfortunately, because this lump is behind my knee, it is problematic and it hurts to squat and extend the leg fully. They can aspirate it, but it often fills back up with fluid, or they can give cortisone shots into the knee. Not sure what this does to help? This cyst often occurs after trauma to the knee of some sort. I will head back into Rabat in late January for a committee meeting and will see a knee specialist at that time if it’s not better. Let’s see if the doctor concurs with my diagnosis. Gosh I bet they hate all of us self-proclaimed doctors with our diagnosis (how do you pluralize this?)!! As most of you know, I’m not a great inactive person, and sitting still is hard to do, so I keep on truckin and I hope the walking and pilates isn’t hurting the knee in the process.

While in Rabat, most of treated ourselves to eating at the German Institute (no unfortunately, there is not a wurst or sauerkraut to be found on the premises), the French Institute, a Lebonese restaurant and at an Italian restaurant. (I think we were all thinking – variety in food - what a novelty). Morocco also celebrated its New Years and we had a day off too while there too. Rarely do we have time to sight-see while in Rabat so most of us took advantage of the day and did something special. A group of us visited Challah – a Roman settlement from the 8th century BC which eventually became the seat of an independent Berber kingdom. A beautiful Kasbah is at this site. We were also invited by our American Ambassador Kaplan and his wife Sylvia to their home for dinner one night. What a treat it was to have this experience and what gracious, kind hosts they were to us all.

I did the trek home to site in one day from Rabat and it is a trek. Up at 6a and began the travel. I arrived home around 8:45p that night. It was soooo good to be home though, it was worth the long day. Unfortunately, I only had a day at home and I then had to head into Ouarzazate. I am working with two other volunteers and we are planning a workshop designed for teens to thirty year olds for mid-February. It is a leadership workshop for young women with the hopes that it will expand their horizons and empower them to seek more. We have grant money for this, so those attending will be able to do so without any monetary charge, although they will have to get their family’s approval to attend and for some that might be a challenge. We have a local association working with us and they will help with the facilitation of the workshop, but that will likely mean more trips into Ouarzazate in the next six weeks than usual.

As many of you know, I like to bake Christmas cookies and give them away as treats to my friends and neighbors for the holidays. I’ve done the same thing here. I made nine different kinds of cookies – perhaps a bit simpler than I would have made at home, but trust me, finding the ingredients can be tricky if even possible and my choice of baking pans is very limited. And, I have an oven that doesn’t have a thermostat, you just look at the flame and try to decide – hmmm, does that look like a 350 degree flame? All challenges to overcome!! Well today I spent the majority of the day walking around cookies to people that have been particularly kind to me during this past year. I could have given out so many more, I just can’t bake enough unfortunately. This is not a fast/easy feat in and of itself since I invited in for tea at each house. Tomorrow I will finish extending my “Papa Noel” wishes and most of the cookies will be gone. While out and about last week, I clipped a couple of pine branches and wired them together to construct a small tree of sorts. Not only does it smell great, but helps with the holiday spirit too. Last Sunday I had some children to my house for a small Christmas party. Christmas carols blasted from my iPod and I gave them the holiday greeting cards I received last year, scissors, glue and paper and asked them to make a card for their parents. They love projects, so they dug right in. When finished with that, I asked if they would each make me a picture either from the unused cards or with the markers I had so that I could put them on the wall near my tree. Of course we had holiday cookies and then popcorn, since that is one of their favorite treats. We finished off the afternoon with a few games of dominoes that they have learned to love playing. I had small gifts for each of them and they went home with big smiles on their faces. I had one on my face too!!!

I will join several other volunteers at my friend Hannah’s house for Christmas. It will be fun to share the holiday with friends. Last year I made pizza for my host family to celebrate. I think I’ll invite them once again for pizza, and a late celebration.

Well my friends, I really do hope you have healthy, happy celebrations with your loved ones. If you are traveling, once again Trek Salam (safe travels) and we’ll chat again after the new year. Happy, Happy Holidays and much love to you all, Linda

All About October

THE CONTENTS OF THIS WEB SITE ARE MINE PERSONALLY AND DO NOT REFLECT ANY POSITION OF THE U.S. GOVERNMENT OR THE PEACE CORPS. Since this site is public, specific details are not given so email me personally if you’d like more information.

11/9/10 Well Elaine, my hitch-hiking friend from years long past, has come and gone. She arrived on October 15th and returned home on the 26th. We did a fast trek around Morocco (my village, Marrakech, Meknes, Volubillis, and Fes), and even fit in a camel ride and a camp-out in the Sahara in the MHamid area. I’ve asked Elaine to write a short note telling you of her impressions and about the trip since I thought you might enjoy this. Below is what she wrote:

“I still am on a high from the trip. Thank you very much for everything you did. Your knowledge of the country, customs, etc. was very helpful. And, your making all the hotel reservations and knowing how to get from city to city was stress free. I REALLY had a great time. Hope you did as well.

What can I say to summarize such a memorable experience - the Mococcan people are so warm and hospitable, the country and history interesting, the weather perfect, the food delicious, and the trip was priceless. Everyone we met and every place we visited has it's own story and rememberances. What a great vacation! What a memorable experience! What an unforgetable adventure!”


We had a good time together and it was sad to see her leave, but I was ready to head home and stay put for a while. Traveling in Morocco is exhausting. Nothing is particularly easy and you can never be sure of the transport, so it’s always a worry of sorts. Carrying the heavy backpack and an additional bag or two is a challenge at times too. But it was an enjoyable trip and we all lived through it. Now another trip is planned and it’s exciting news -- just last week the plans for my son, Chris’s visit were finalized. He will leave Chicago on February 25th and fly to Madrid. Spend a few days there and then come into Marrakech. He’ll then return to Madrid from Tangiers and then back to Chicago on March 13th. I have quite an itinerary planned and he’ll return tired, not rested, I’m afraid, but he’s young so he can do! I am so excited for his visit, I could jump up and down, but that hurts my knee, so I won’t. I can’t wait to show him off and there are so many people I want him to meet.

Speaking of my knee. The PC doctors seem to think it is tendonitis, not a torn meniscus, which is good news indeed. X-rays were done, and although I’m not entirely convinced this is the best diagnostic tool available, we will go with this diagnosis for now. I was instructed to rest the knee as much as possible. Well, since Elaine was soon to arrive, not possible to do so immediately, but once back to my site on the afternoon of the 26th, I have been doing so as much as possible. I am happy to report that my knee definitely feels better. Not 100% mind you, and I can make it hurt, but as long as I just walk and don’t twist and turn while doing so, it’s okay. I will continue to be kind to my knee whenever possible and hopefully it will be back to normal soon.

One of my greatest pleasures of late is having my morning coffee on my rooftop. I love crisp, cool mornings and they are definitely that, but oh so pleasant. I’m a natural early-riser, so I am usually up there before some of my community is out and about. It is great fun to watch my village wake-up. I have one neighbor lady that has obviously observed me up there. She almost always comes to her rooftop, just to say good morning to me I think since I never see her do anything while there, other than to greet me and then she returns downstairs to her home. I love it. School children walk to school past my home and now look up to wave and say good morning too. Cows have been milked and the couple of liters of milk that they got this morning are walked down to the street, to be picked up and processed. They are paid 5dirham for about a liter and a half of milk (8 dirham equals $1). I like it that most people look up to see if I’m there now and then they greet me.

This morning as I was looking up, about 25 sheep magically appeared at the tip-top of a hill near me looking for grass to eat. A woman was out with them. Pretty slim pickins in these hills, but most seem to survive. We are dry and rocky and overgrazed. Few trees since most have been cut and have not replanted. Lots of barren hills can be seen here. Speaking of the sheep and this woman. Can you imagine being a herder? A person (sometimes a man, but usually a woman) will take animals out each day looking for something for them to eat. They will sit all day and watch their animals. They don’t read, knit or do anything other than watch their animals. Sometimes they meet up with another person also herding and they’ll have a conversation, but generally they are alone. What are they thinking about? Do they want a different life or are they satisfied? A very different world from what we live in for sure. I always visualize Heidi running over the hill yelling “Grandfather, Grandfather” when I see this. Can’t you just see it in the movie now?

Most days are sunny with bright blue skies. A light jacket usually feels good. I don’t know what the temperature is? Elaine brought me a thermometer, but since it hasn’t moved off of 60 degrees, I am a bit suspicious of it. When the wind blows – it howls and makes me shiver to just hear it. My apartment is a bit drafty, the wind coming in under my door can raise the mat under my white plastic table eight inches or so. I’m thinking I need to stuff that crack with something, but what do I do about the edges and top? The leaves of the trees are changing colors, but nothing as vibrant and beautiful as Michigan’s colors can be. Lately, the sound of men yelling commands to their donkeys fill the air. One man has worked with his two donkeys all day today, tilling first this spot, then another, then another. The donkeys seem to understand Tashlheet – they are much smarter than I am!!  Soon they will be throwing seeds hither and yon so that they have a spring harvest – a bit of barley, some peas, perhaps some alfalfa?

I find that I love a goat’s face. They look so wise, don’t you think? Now, I know that I loved Dulcie from the minute I set eyes on him – remember my pet goat up at my host family’s house last year? Luckily he has remained a bit scrawny, so he’s not been eaten yet, and hopefully they won’t do so until after I’ve left next year. Lately, some goats have been tied out near my apartment to graze. When I go up to my rooftop to wash/hang clothes, do whatever, they all stop and look at me. I’m guessing they are wondering what is that thing with the light colored hair? They could win a stare-down, hands down. I’m as fascinated with them as they are with me. Have I been here too long – here I am thinking about a goat’s face?

Speaking of faces – would you check out this puppy. Angelica, a volunteer in a nearby village, decided that she would adopt a puppy. This little guy was one of six, and unfortunately the other five are now all dead. Originally the puppy was named Waldo, but we’ve since learned that a new name was in order – so Lily Luna it now is. I get the opportunity to babysit this week since Angelica needs to go to Rabat. I’m betting I’ll be ready for the puppy to head home, but I’m very excited now about the prospect of having this little gal visit for a few days.

Two National Geographic groups came to visit in October and this time they visited a home in Anna’s village. Unfortunately, one group came while Elaine was here, and even though we hitched a ride from Marrakech to my village with them, and we had the chance to visit while on the bus, the visit was short. Both groups again enjoyed the opportunity to experience a real Berber home. We only wish we had a bit more time to show them the communities we live in as well.

Here is a picture of Nadia taken at the baby’s center. Moroccan women seldom use hot pads or spatulas for that matter. I cringe every time I see them pick up something hot with their fingers. Can you do this? We’ve had over a hundred babies stay in our baby’s center since it opened in March. Not bad I’d say for a small community. Water continues to be a problem though. Sometimes we have it and sometimes we don’t. Unfortunately, the western toilets and shower that we have, have never been used since the water supply is so sporadic. I went with my counterpart this summer into Ouarzazate to talk with some officials about this, but so far nothing has been done to fix the problem. We are still waiting for our first customer at the restaurant – remember we opened in late March. But in a way, that’s not all bad. Water is also an issue here too and the western toilet has never worked. Think it needs a new bottom seal and perhaps a tank too, but first we need water on a dependable basis. Of course, the parking lot needs to be finished so that a car can drive in too. We have work to do for sure.

I think I mentioned that the teachers we had last year at the association decided to not return this year. So unfortunately, the non-formal education classes and the embroidery/sewing classes are not being offered. We have a very usable association building, but it is seldom open since there are no teachers. Sad to see because there are young women who used to use this facility. I have sent the word out this past week though that the young women should meet me this coming week there and we’ll do pilates together. They’ll be able to follow along with me and we’ll have some laughs. Should be fun.

I’ve spent some time at the primary school this past month. I delivered a new trash can with cover to each of the classrooms and talked with the students about how bad littering was for the community and environment. I always get a little theatrical in my presentation and they all laugh and think I’m a bit nuts. Hopefully they get my point though. I try to spend an hour each day picking up trash in my town. Unfortunately, I have to then burn it since I don’t have any other way to dispose of it, and I know that this is not the best thing possible for the environment either, but it’s the best choice I have at the moment. Anna (sort of my site mate) and I take our bottles and cans into Ouarzazate with us when we go since they have a garbage pickup and landfill there. Again I know its not the best solution, but we have to start somewhere.

I also took a basket of cleaning supplies to the school. The kids were most fascinated by the things I had in it. I then explained that I was going to clean their bathrooms for them since they were filthy. I did have teachers and some students offer to help, but I said “no, this time I will do it and show you just how clean they can be”. I then suggested to the teachers that they set up a schedule for the older students to take turns and be responsible for keeping them clean in the future. I must stop by this week and see how they look. In their basket there were soap dishes with soap. I need to return and give them a hand-washing demonstration soon. I’m told that using glitter is the most effective way to show the importance of washing hands. You pour glitter all over your hands and then touch and shake hands with others. Obviously, the glitter spreads from one person to another, just like germs do. Usually if the children can see this, it makes a bigger impression on how easily germs are spread and the importance of washing one’s hands with soap. First, I need to find some glitter though. There must be some in Morocco somewhere?????

The front door to my apartment building was rather scratched and boring so I asked the landlord if he would mind if I painted it. Since I had a bit of paint left over from the world map project and it is enamel paint, I painted my door with it. What do you think? Isn’t it fun? Looks very Moroccan to me and I love it.

One of my favorite times of the year is coming up - Thanksgiving. You’ll all soon be gathering with family/friends and eating turkey with all the trimmings. We all have so much to be grateful for. Take a few minutes and reflect on the many blessings you have. I’ve invited four volunteers that live relatively near me to come share Thanksgiving with me. Uncertain if they will all be able to come and I haven’t promised them a meal like gma/mom would prepare at home, but I hope I can give them some of their familiar things. My oven is too small to roast a turkey, but since I’m not aware of where I could buy turkey anyways, I’ll just bake some chicken pieces. I’ve never seen a pumpkin here, but thinking a squash pie could be close???? Regardless of what I serve, it will be fun to share the day with friends and I am looking forward to it.

Remember last year when I wrote about the killing of the sheep? Eid El Kebir will soon be here again this year and family and friends will be gathering and celebrating together. Hopefully I will join my host family for a meal or two during this time, but must admit that I won’t miss eating sheep for breakfast, lunch and dinner for days or until the sheep is gone.

Towards the end of the month, I will be heading into Marrakech to help out at a craft fair there that PC helps organize. The artisans that we work with are invited to bring their wares to sell them. Unfortunately, the cheese from my association is not conducive to this selling practice (transport, refrigeration, etc.), but we have forty artisana’s participating. It is a wonderful way to see what others are doing and for them to make some money too. I will then head directly from there into Rabat where those of us that arrived in Morocco a year ago will have mid-service medicals. I was sworn in almost a year ago – unbelievable.

I hope you continue to enjoy reading these blog updates. I like writing them and it does seem a good way to share my experiences with you. Sometimes I go on and on though so I’m trying to be conscious of that and make this a bit more concise. It is kind of like when you get me talking. You know how difficult it can be to shut me up. I wish you all a nice Thanksgiving holiday. Many of you will be traveling and I also wish you Trek Salam (safe travels). Until I write again – stay healthy and take care of yourselves. Hugs to you all, Linda