Sunday, December 13, 2009

December 13th

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12/13/2009 Seems like quite a while since I’ve written, but it really hasn’t been that long, has it? I hope you enjoyed seeing the pictures I posted in my last two entries. I will take some of my apartment when I am settled in so that you can it. Where to start ……

Well the “great feast” is over and I can tell you I’ve eaten enough sheep to last me until next year. In fact, next year, I may become a vegetarian! I know I ate testicles, feet and brain, and who knows what else? It’s really best that I not always know what I’m eating. We ate sheep for every meal and very few vegetables or fruit was served during this time. After a few days, I actually got quite sick. The meat is greasy, rich and just too much of it was served. My system couldn’t handle it. My family didn’t quite understand how I could refuse meat, but I switched to bread and unsweetened tea for a couple of days and let the system settled down. One day I laid low and just wanted to sleep. Someone sat with me the entire time and would occasionally wake me up with Meryam (that’s my name in Morocco) – are you sleeping? Ummm, trying, but guess not, maybe later. Sounds like something my mom would do.

The actual holiday celebration lasted about two days, Saturday and Sunday. Family came from Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakech to visit. We ate a lot of cookies, almonds and sweet tea. We visited family in the area for more cookies, almonds and sweet tea. Everyone was festive and jolly. Reminded me so much of how my holidays were as a little girl. I grew up in the area where my mom was from. She came from a big family and almost everyone lived in the area. During the holidays the families would visit each other. Kids would play, parents would visit and we would all eat….. and drink. Not so very different really. I met a lot of people, smiled, nodded my head a lot since I really didn’t know what they were saying and kissed cheeks. The children had about a week off from school and my host mom was glad to have them return to their schedule too. I was glad to get back to normal days.

Speaking of normal days – what is a normal day for me? Right now, rather low-key and laid back. PC has told us that the job at hand for the time being is to learn the language. We really aren’t expected to be involved with our businesses until probably February or so. We have a two week in-service training period scheduled for the first two weeks of February in a town in northern Morocco, I suspect when I return from that I will become more involved. Obviously, I have visited a time or two, and when I’m out and about I meet a familiar face from time to time, but basically, I’m greeting and meeting people right now. School for the children here begins at varying schedules, but usually one of the children has to be to school at 8a so the family gets up around 7a. We have breakfast consisting of coffee (actually more sweetened milk with just a hint of coffee) and bread. Sometimes my host mom makes kind of a starchy white, slightly salty soup to have too. It warms you up on a chilly morning. My host mom and I are the only ones that eat it, guess the others don’t like it? I usually then get on the internet for an hour or so, although I get the feeling my host mom really doesn’t like me doing this – perhaps I should be studying Tashlheet? I do then try to study the language for most of the morning outside in the sunshine because it is much warmer outside than inside, but seems like someone is always stopping by to see what I’m doing. Tea and bread is served around 10a. Sometimes my host mom makes fried donuts or crepe like things for this morning snack. The children arrive home from school around noon and sometimes my host dad comes home too at this time. The big meal of the day is served around 1p and usually consists of a tajine (kind of a conical shaped clay cooker) where there is a small portion of meat placed in the bottom and then potatoes, carrots, onion, tomato, etc., put on top. Sort of a stewed meal. It is served out of this dish and each person has a designated triangle of food in front of them that is theirs to eat. This family rarely leaves their triangle, but my previous two host families just dug in and whoever ate the fastest, got the mostest. Silverware is not used and we scoop our food with a small piece of bread. It is eaten from the top down with the most precious being the meat that is served last. If we happen to have fruit in the house, it is served last. We ate a lot of pomegranates for a while and they were delicious. Seems like the only thing available in my town now is clementines and luckily I like them. Vegetables may vary a bit, but the tajine is the most common meal eaten. On Fridays we usually have sksu (couscous), but not a lot of variation otherwise. The kids go back to school at 2p and I’ve been leaving the house then too. I visit the post office, maybe a hanut (really small store) and then I’ve been going to my apartment and cleaning and settling in. I aim to be back to my host house around 5p since that is when the kids get home from school. Tea and bread (yep, one more time) is served then. Depending on the night, I might then get back on the internet for a bit, play tic/tac/toe with the kids or cards (kind of a Go Fish game). The family sits in front of the television from about 6-9p wrapped in blankets. I usually try to join them around 7p because much more of this and I could scream. I didn’t watch television in the US, and to sit in front of the box and watch something I can’t even understand seems nuts!! We eat dinner at 8p in front of the television. It is usually a noodle dish, rice, lentils or if I’m lucky some sort of soup. At 9p everyone is ready for bed, myself included. Ahh, to be warm. My host mom has three wool blankets on my bed. The coverings are so heavy, I can hardly roll over. God help me if I have to get out of bed fast, I can hardly move them, but they are toasty and warm so I’m really not complaining. Whew….. sorry this really was more involved than I anticipated it being, but someone asked how I spend my days.

I had sheep sickness (or whatever it was) and other family members have been sick too. My host brother has been running a very high fever, has had upset stomach and a terrible cold (gosh I hope I don’t get this one). Hope it’s not H1N1.! These parents were every bit as concerned about their child as any parent in the US would be. The mom was really quite upset. The reason I share this is to give you a picture of my host dad. My host mom was sick too. She did the bare minimum during the day and collapsed on the couch late afternoon. My host dad came home and asked if the kids had had a bath since there was school the next day – they had not. He helped them bathe. He then made dinner – granted fried eggs, but dinner nevertheless. He moved everyone along to bed that night. This is soooo not the picture of the Moroccan man I had in my mind. I think he is an exception and I just wonder how he got to be this way? He will clear away the dishes after dinner, he tends to a sick child. He is just a nice guy. This is truly just a nice family!

We were talking (well kind of talking) about me moving to my own house soon. My host family tells me I don’t have to leave. I can stay with them for two years. I am part of the family. When Chris comes to visit, he is part of the family. My host mom cried. I assured them that I would visit and they could feed me whenever (as long as it isn’t sheep).

If the kids aren’t in school they are playing with friends. They are dusty and dirty by the end of the day. Unfortunately they don’t have the practice of cleaning them up before bedtime and they usually sleep in the clothes they have played in for the last day or two or three. Baths are usually taken twice a week or so. I do have the kids brushing teeth with me in the morning and at night – sometimes after lunch too. I am working really hard on getting them to cough/sneeze into their sleeves rather than out into the world. I’m making progress but not there yet. I keep telling them microbes are dangerous. Let’s wash our hands with soap – now. Speaking of playing I watch the kids of the house play with their make-believe car. They have a wheel of some sort stuck on a stick that is then stuck into a pail. They have a piece of wire going out and up from this (I think it’s the antenna). They have a head of an old doll tied on the pole (a passenger?) They play for hours with the sounds of a motor running. Who needs more?

Well, this has droned on much longer than I expected it to. Hope I haven’t bored you to death. I’ll try to write again before the holidays. Suspect you are all busy with holiday preparations. Have fun and enjoy the moment! Miss you, Bslama. Linda


  1. I have never eaten sheep. I understand it is rich and smell very bad when it is cooking. Sounds like you will have to watch your waist line with all the bread, donuts, cookies and sweet tea. LOL hang in there. Happy Holidays

  2. I was one of the National Geographic people who visited in March. I loved being there! Thanks to the family who hosted us. It was a wonderful afternoon. It certainly gave me a better understanding of Moroccan village life. I wish I could return.